Sunday, May 10, 2009

Hotel D'Argouges - Bayeux, France



The main building of this hotel was built in the 16th century by an aristocratic family for visiting the countryside.  Today's rooms are in the main building, the Garden House, and the Stable.  The hotel is operated by the family which owns it, and they have created a charming place to visit.

The hotel is located in downtown Bayeux.  This small town near both Caen and the Normandy beaches is quite charming in its own right.  The downtown neighborhood is the location of quite a few homes built 2-4 centuries ago by affluent families for vacation time.  They've been maintained well so that walking their streets is delightful with a wide variety of sights.  

The cathedral is huge, gothic and under constant construction.  Shopping is for pedestrians and quite fun.  The plaza across the street from the hotel is home to a Saturday market with fresh flowers, live animals and birds, clothing, jewelry, books and whatever else someone wants to put in a booth to sell.  


















The main attraction to me in Bayeux is its tapestry.  This 230 feet long embroidered linen tells the story of the Battle of Hastings, when William the Conqueror defeated his cousin Harold to become king of England, and which marks the last successful invasion of Britain.  The tapestry is a marvel.  In pictures it shows the politics, the preparation, the actual battle, and the results of the major landmark event of English history.  No one knows for sure who designed or made the tapestry.  It is told from William's viewpoint, although it is respectful of Harold, so the general conclusion is that William's wife, Queen Matilde, either commissioned or helped create the tapestry.  It is so valuable as a historical document that it is protected as a United Nations World Heritage Piece.



















And back to the hotel.  As with most of these houses, the street view of the hotel is a tall, stone wall, with a double gate.  You walk or drive through the gate and proceed up a long driveway lined with potted trees.  The building greets you with two curved staircases taking you up to the front door on the first (or to Americans, second) floor.   The doors open into a small foyer where you register and get your keys.  Beyond the foyer is a larger lobby with marble fireplaces and wingback chairs where you can wait for people or read.  On either side of this lobby are dining rooms.  The larger one is bright with yellows, a marble fireplace topped by a huge gilt-framed mirror.  It has the tall French windows looking out into the garden and wall completely covered by a tapestry of a hunting picnic in the eighteenth century.

The wife of the family acts as the hostess, registering and greeting guests.  She is a very attractive woman who dressed to the 9's every day -- heels; accessories, makeup, smile, every inch the hostess.  The first day she had on a beige silk suit.  Yesterday she had on a black brocade with red roses jacket over a white blouse with roses for the collar.  Today she had another suit.  No slacks.  Always dress shoes with stiletto heels.  Yup.  Whole different set of values and behavior for professional women in France than in the US.

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